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| Matheos Anin, amaf dari Fatumnasi di dalam ume kbubu-nya Matheos Anin, amaf of Fatumnasi, in his Ume Kbubu |
- Mollo is our sister. The people of Meto in the region of Timor Tengah Selatan regard Mollo as their sister, while Amanatun and Amanuban are the brothers. The girl lives on the mountain, while the boys live in the coastal area. Probably, it is also the reason why the name of Mollo is different from the typical names of areas in West Timor (especially in the region of Timor Tengah Selatan and the region of Kupang) which usually have “Ama/Am” in front, for example Amanuban, Amanatun, Amfoang, Amarasi, Ambeno, etc. For complete story of history and civilization of the people of Meto in Mollo, there are many Amaf or village elders that we can talk to. For instance, there is Matheos Anin in Fatumnasi and Petrus Almet in Lelobatan. From them, we can gather information about social structure of the people of Meto, starting from Usif (the king), amaf (the elders), Mafefa (the spokesman), to the lay people; we can also get information about traditional law, communal land, fairy tales, myths, and so on. It is an interesting experience to hear the people of Mollo talking in Dawan language or in Bahasa Indonesia because they have their own dialect. There is a beautiful rhythm which is interesting for the ears to listen to. As if they are singing the sentences. There is also a strong assimilation of culture in Mollo. The Chinese people have been living there for hundreds of years, blended in marital relationship with the people of Mollo and give births to new generations and culture. There also many people from Sabu and Bugis (South Celebes).
- Mollo is the complete mixture of the richness of nature and culture. As it is located in higher land, its natural landscape is also astonishing. The string of mountains from Mollo to Mutis shrouded by the forest of ampupu (Eucalyptus urophylla) one of the endemic plants in Timor. The trees of pine with pasture and cattle roam freely will remind you of villages in Europe. Mollo gives us a magical impression of its look during the rainy season and dry season. The tradition is also well-maintained. People who live in ume kbubu, the round houses of thatch grass, will welcome you with a warm smile, betel nut and sopi (local type of gin), of course if you want to drink. In that warm house, together with the hosts, you may eat jagung bose (corn cooked traditionally in Timor) and se’i (smoked meat), talking about gardens of garlic and the harvest season for the honey in the forest. There are many traditions and rituals that are well maintained, starting from opening new gardens, the planting time up to the harvest time. If you are lucky, you might be invited into the forest to do the harvest for honey. You may witness how the Meo, the hunter, persuading the bee regarded as Fetonai or grand lady with a poem so he will not get bitten. Timor offers a distinct impression that is probably different from Flores or Sumba. You might be one of the ones who wants to know about it personally.
- Mollo is the guardian of the environment. Since thousands of years, the ancestors of Mollo are already living in a noble task: to protect the forests and springs. Keeping the overall existing ecosystems. Because Mollo is the heart that pumps blood and energy throughout the body. There is a respect honored to the universe. There is concept of batu nama (fatukanaf) and air nama (oekanaf). The elements of the universe are characterized by place, by the spirit and ownership in accordance with the name of each clan. This sense of intimacy and ownership is the reason why the people of Mollo cannot escape from this noble task. Because the damage to one of the natural elements will also damage other elements. This intimacy gives birth to many fighters who fight against the mining and forests’ function shift. One who is known and recognized by the world is Mama Aleta Ba’un, the winner of the Goldman Prize.
- For culinary in Mollo, it is generally similar to other areas in Timor. Without much spices and rely more on the authenticity of the taste and texture of the food (except a few dishes that have been influenced by Chinese tradition). Jagung Bose or jagung katemak, is a type of food made of corn which is cooked along with several types of nuts, can also be mixed with pumpkins or the shoots. It is cooked without coconut milk. You can have that with the salted or even unsalted grilled or boiled meat. So if you have never eaten jagung bose and grilled meat with forest honey, you can get that in the kitchen of Timorese, the people of Mollo. Talking about culinary in Mollo which are influenced by the Chinese tradition, there are some processed meat or lard, for example babi oangke or salted biscuits. Sambal lu'at from Mollo is also typically special, because in a mountain area that has many kinds of mint or basil, for example onatlao, ut sipa, ut manu, etc, the taste of sambal lu’at can be very rich (also very good to have it along with the boiled pisang luang – a type of banana typical to Timor). Some people even add sliced of bamboo shoots and beef liver. It is so delicious! If you visit the weekly market (every Thursday in Kapan, every Saturday in Tobu, and every Monday in Fatumnasi), you can also buy popcorn made of local corn strain, chips of pig skin (which is very good to have along with laru, a local alcoholic beverage made of fermented roomie palm). There are plenty of local organic fruits and vegetables that can be purchased and processed at people’s house.
- Looking at Mollo, it doesn’t mean that there is no problem there. Various issues, such as the mining issue and weather anomaly which affects farming, and also about the migrant workers, are today’s problem we face in Mollo. The access for education for the young people needs to be developed and encouraged. Another issue is about the tradition of storytelling which is now left behind and unfortunately has not been well-documented yet. It becomes a restlessness for activists of culture and literature. Similarly is the weaving activities for young people.
+1 Lakoat.Kujawas or #LKJWS.
In Mollo, there is a creative project created by the young people. Christian
Dicky Senda, a young writer and activist, originally from Mollo, created a
social enterprise concept involves local residents, along with his friends from
various areas such as Kupang, Sumba, Jogjakarta and Melbourne, not only from
Mollo. Lakoat.Kujawas taken from the names of two fruits that are planted and
flourished in Mollo. Lakoat or loquat fruit was originally from Japan and
kujawas is guava. By leveraging advances in internet technology, especially through
social media, lakoat.kujawas is hoped to become a new platform that connects
individuals to create collaborative working in Mollo, particularly in the arts,
literacy, culture and environment areas. #LKJWS is a community that is open and
connects citizens of Mollo with the people all over the world. #LKJWS pioneering
a library in the village Taeftob, North Mollo, which can be accessed by anyone.
#LKJWS will soon be selling handicrafts and food products typically from Mollo
on Instagram, cooperate with the women weavers in Mollo. #LKJWS manage simple
homestay at people’s houses. Come to stay and interact directly with the local
people. Contact us through email at lakoat.kujawas@gmail.com or Whatsapp
081338037075, if you want to work collaboratively with people as well as
wanting to learn about the culture Mollo. Come, we are waiting for you!
***
- Mollo adalah saudara perempuan kita. Orang Meto di kabupaten Timor Tengah Selatan menganggap Mollo adalah sang perempuan, sedangkan saudara lelakinya adalah Amanatun dan Amanuban. Perempuan di gunung, sedangkan lelakinya lebih dekat ke pesisir. Barangkali nama ini juga yang membedakan dengan nama wilayah lain di Timor Barat (terutama di kabupaten TTS dan Kabupaten Kupang) yang serba "Ama/Am", contohnya Amanuban, Amanatun, Amfoang, Amarasi, Ambeno dll. Untuk lebih jelas mengenai sejarah dan peradaban orang Meto di Mollo, ada banyak amaf atau tua adat yang bisa kita temui untuk mendapatkan informasi secara lengkap. Misalnya, di Fatumnasi ada bapa Matheos Anin. Atau bapa Petrus Almet di Lelobatan. Dari mereka, informasi mengenai struktur sosial orang Meto di Mollo dari tingkat paling tinggi yakni usif (raja), amaf, mafefa atau juru bicara, hingga kalangan rakyat biasa atau informasi mengenai hukum adat, tanah ulayat, dongeng, mitos dan seterusnya. Menarik sekali mendengar cara orang Mollo bertutur dalam bahasa Dawan atau Bahasa Indonesia, ada dialek yang khas. Ada semacam irama yang asyik di telinga. Seperti mendengar orang melagukan kalimatnya. Ada percampuran kebudayaan yang kental di Mollo. Orang-orang Cina sudah menetap ratusan tahun lamanya di Mollo, kawin mawin dan melahirkan generasi dan budaya baru yang tak kalah unik. Banyak juga orang Sabu dan Bugis di sana.
- Mollo adalah paduan komplit antara kekayaan alam dan budaya. Karena berada di dataran lebih tinggi, bentang alamnya lebih menakjubkan. Deretan gunung dari Mollo hingga Mutis yang diselimuti hutan ampupu (eucalyptus urophylla) salah satu tumbuhan endemik di Timor. Pepohon pinus dengan padang rumput dan sapi yang bebas berkeliaran akan mengingatkanmu pada desa-desa di Eropa. Mollo memberikan kesan ajaib bagi kita tentang rupanya di musim penghujan dan musim kemarau. Tradisi manusianya pun masih terjaga dengan baik. Masyarakat yang tinggal di ume kbubu, rumah bulat dari rumput ilalang akan menyambutmu dengan senyum hangat, sirih pinang dan tentu saja sopi, jika kau mau meminumnya. Di rumah yang hangat itu, kau bisa saja makan jagung bose dan daging se'i bersama tuan rumah, diajak bercerita tentang kebun bawang putih dan musim memanen madu di hutan. Ada banyak tradisi dan ritual terpelihara dengan baik, dimulai dari membuka kebun baru, menanam hingga musim panen. Jika beruntung kau bisa diajak masuk ke hutan untuk memanen madu. Melihat langsung sang meo, sang pemburu, merayu lebah yang dianggap sebagai Fetonai atau perempuan agung dengan puisi agar tidak digigit. Timor menawarkan kesan yang barangkali berbeda dengan Flores atau Sumba. Anda barangkali salah satu yang ingin mengetahuinya secara dekat.
- Mollo adalah penjaga lingkungan. Sejak ribuan tahun, nenek moyang orang Mollo
sudah hidup dalam sebuah tugas mulia: menjaga hutan dan mata air. Menjaga
keseluruhan ekosistem yang ada. Sebab Mollo adalah jantung yang memompa darah
dan energi ke seluruh tubuh. Ada penghormatan kepada alam semesta. Ada konsep
batu nama (fatukanaf) dan air nama (oekanaf). Elemen-elemen alam semesta
dikarakteristikan, diberi tempat, diberi roh dan kepemilikan sesuai dengan nama setiap marga.
Kedekatan dan rasa memiliki alam semesta inilah yang membuat orang Mollo tidak
bisa lepas dari tugas mulianya. Sebab kerusakan satu elemen alam akan merusak
pula elemen yang lain. Kedekatan ini melahirkan banyak jiwa-jiwa pejuang ketika
tambang dan alihfungsi hutan masuk. Salah satu yang dikenal dan diakui dunia
karena memperjuangkan kelestarian lingkungan adalah mama Aleta Ba’un, peraih
Goldman Prize.
Atoin Meto - Kuliner Mollo umumnya sama dengan kuliner dari daerah Timor lainnya. Tanpa bumbu meriah, lebih mengandalkan keaslian rasa dan tekstur bahan makanan (kecuali beberapa masakan yang sudah mendapat pengaruh Cina). Jagung bose atau jagung katemak dimasak dengan berbagai jenis kacang, bisa juga dicampur buah dan pucuk labu. Dimasak tanpa santan. Pelengkapnya bisa daging bakar atau daging rebus dengan garam atau bahkan tanpa garam. Belum pernah makan jagung bose, daging bakar disiram madu hutan? Hal itu ada di dapur orang Timor, orang Mollo. Bicara kuliner yang berkembang di Mollo karena pengaruh Cina, ada beberapa olahan daging atau minyak babi, misalnya babi oangke atau biskuit asin. Sambal lu’at dari Mollo juga khas, karena di daerah pegunungan yang punya berbagai jenis daun mint atau kemangi, misalnya onatlao, ut sipa, ut manu, dsb, sehingga citarasa sambal lu’at dari Mollo pun akan sangat kaya di lidah (cocok sekali dinikmati dengan pisang luang rebus). Bahkan ada juga yang menambah irisan rebung dan hati sapi. Sedap sekali. Jika berkunjung pada hari pasar Mingguan (di Kapan setiap hari Kamis, Tobu setiap Sabtu atau Fatumnasi setiap Senin), kalian bisa membeli jagung bunga (pop corn) dari jagung galur lokal, keripik kulit babi (cocoknya ditemani laru, minuman beralkohol hasil farmentasi nira lontar). Ada banyak sayuran dan buah organik lokal yang bisa dibeli dan diolah di rumah warga.
- Melihat Mollo, tidak berarti tanpa masalah di sana. Isu lingkungan seperti tambang dan anomali cuaca yang berpengaruh pada pertanian warga serta isu pekerja migran adalah sebagian problem Mollo hari ini. Akses generasi muda pada pendidikan juga harus terus dibangun dan didorong. Tradisi bertutur yang belakangan makin ditinggalkan dan sayangnya belum terdokumentasi dengan baik adalah keresahan tersendiri bagi kalangan pegiat kebudayaan dan kesusastraan. Begitupula aktivitas menenun bagi kaum muda.
NB: Foto-foto oleh Valentino Luis, desain logo oleh Gerald Louis Fori.
Indah....
BalasHapusSaya berkesempatan mengunjungi Fatumnasi & Nausus bersama beberapa teman.
Sayang, perjalanan saya hanya 1 malam saja menginap di So'E.
Kapan-kapan mungkin bisa menginap langsung di homestay.